By Rick Riozza
A couple of weeks ago, we wrote on the current plight of wine in view of the wine glut and the fact that with the new drinking generation, wine is not their number one option.
Indeed, only the Italian sparkling wine Prosecco, showed an increase of 2.7% last year in sales. Every other wine varietal dropped in sales except for Sauvignon Blanc which neither rose nor dropped: And in the current wine trade, they’re taking that stat as a win!
I know it’s a little early in the year to be talking about Sauv Blanc—heck, we haven’t even talked about rosés, but since that varietal made it into the “win” category, why not jump at the chance to be the first wine review around to talk about it. And let’s face it: here in the desert our winter dances quickly into springtime and here, well that’s Sauvignon Blanc weather.
So right now, Mother Goose notwithstanding, our favorite Sauv Blanc on our tasting table is the Infamous Goose. If you haven’t seen it on market shelves—perhaps you’ll take a gander at market wine shelves.
So, let’s start with this: the internet tells us, besides being the proper name for a male goose and a slang word for silly man, the word gander also shows up in the idiom “take a gander.” The slang sense of gander comes from the meaning recorded in 1886, to take a long look by craning one’s neck like a goose, or wander foolishly (again, like a goose).
Now back to the Infamous Goose. Why the name? The folks at this New Zealand winery starts things out with some more questions: “Is there or was there such an animal. Is the Infamous Goose really extinct? Rumors and legends abound. The only sure thing is this wine.” And there you go—maybe now you’re hooked.
We’ve covered kiwi Sauv Blanc (ad nauseam for those Pinot Grigio fans who prefer a lesser tang to their quaff) and although there is some great Sauv Blanc in France’s Loire Valley and in Northern California wine country, we always end up in New Zealand.
And we’ve all heard the kiwi plug: The Sauvignon Blanc fruit from Marlborough, New Zealand is mecca for Sauvignon Blanc, One of New Zealand’s sunniest and driest regions, with a relatively cool climate, Marlborough provides a long, slow ripening period that intensifies flavors in the fruit. The grapes showcase both fresh, vibrant fruit and a crisp, herbaceous character. The winery now chimes in with, “this region takes Infamous Goose Sauvignon Blanc to new heights of pure flavor.”
“The wine is named for the Infamous Goose, aka, the Moa, a giant flightless bird that roamed the South Island of New Zealand well before humans appeared.
“Moa (aka The Infamous Goose) was a species of flightless bird indigenous to New Zealand. The largest reached about 12 feet tall and weighed roughly 510 pounds. It was the dominant herbivore in New Zealand, thriving on forest, shrub-land and sub-alpine ecosystems for thousands of years.
“According to record, the Moa met its end as the favorite prey of the ominous Haast Eagle, a species of massive eagles that once lived on the South Island of New Zealand with a wingspan greater than 12 feet, and at the hands of the Maori who hunted them to extinction.” Talk about the wildlife!
Now the nerdy part: The grapes that make Infamous Goose are primarily sourced from a single vineyard in the Wairau River Valley that has been managed by the brand for a number of years. The vineyard has a yield cap to ensure only the best quality grapes are used in the production of this wine. The soil is stony, sandy loam with deep layers of free-draining shingle. Fast-draining and with low fertility, this soil reduces vigor, yielding instead lush, aromatic, ripe fruit.
The product itself is from a blend of fruit from cool climate regions on New Zealand’s North and South Island. Thus, here, the classic flavors of the Sauv Blanc grape really shine. For sure, there are many flavors that are a bit harsh for some, but are enthusiastically welcomed by many others:
Sauv Blanc is an aromatic wine with notes of citrus, grapefruit, grass, herbs, lemon, lime, melon, gooseberries, green apples, green bell pepper, jalapenos, minerals, nectarines, passion fruit, tropical fruits, pineapple, asparagus, slate, smoke, steel, sticks & stones (sorry—I added the sticks for rhythm’s sake). Anyway—are you still with us?
As with the many new kiwi vineyards and winemakers, Infamous Goose strives with strong commitment to sustainable production. Infamous Goose employs key sustainable practices established and audited by Water and Atmosphere Information Ltd (WAI) – the third-party organization which establishes and audits compliance to New Zealand Sustainable Practice Requirements.
Famously, the Infamous Goose has met and/or exceeded all WAI requirements including, but not limited to, 100% compliance in vineyard management and in the wine processing plant in terms of soil management, vine nutrition, irrigation, and environmentally and safety conscious growing practices.
So, let’s take a gander and a taste of the recent release (2023) of the Infamous Goose, which sells for around $11 to $15: The winemaker notes state: Pale lime to pale straw. An abundance of tropical fruit, including passion fruit pulp and honeydew, leap from the glass. The palate is as succulent as it is fresh—a fantastic reminder of the sheer enjoyment and liveliness this region can produce.
Critic reviews include: Opens with a yellow grapefruit and light gooseberry bouquet with hints of lime zest, green pepper, and guava. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied with plus acidity. The mouthfeel is bright, fresh, and mouthwatering. Ruby grapefruit and lime blend with notes stony minerality, white pepper and tonic water. Pair this Sauvignon Blanc with blackened swordfish tacos.
Cheers!
