Avanti! Chianti!

by Rick Riozza

Now how many of us back in the day, when we went into a mom & pop family Italian restaurant, saw all of those Chianti bottles strapped in straw strewn about and atop red-checked tablecloths? They looked great and had that authentic and romantic Italian old-world look.
Then we ordered a bottle only to find the juice as sour as can be! Was it a “bad” bottle or what!—who drinks this stuff? We panicked, we didn’t let it breathe or wait for the meal to come—as we should have because it was the definitive “food” wine where its acidity could cut through any red pasta sauce and heavy meat dishes. Of course that would have been true had we the real Chianti, but most likely, we didn’t.
The straw wrapped bottle was called a “fiasco” in Italian. Yes—that’s where we get the term when “things get in a mess”. If you made a mistake weaving those wicker baskets, all the straw blew apart and you had a mess on your hand.
These “flasks” sold like wildfire here in the 1970’s as cheap decorations but unfortunately the wine was cheap as well. So all this poorly made, cheap tasting Chianti wine, thin, astringent and painful to drink had a bad taste in everybody’s mind for a long time. Of course, these bad wines were sold as being true Chianti and very nearly destroyed Chianti’s reputation!
When I attended the L.A. Viva Vino Italian Wine Festival this last June, even the Italian wine marketers said “Chianti in America is Dead”! Geez! Why so solemn? Hey! I’m a Christian and I believe in the Resurrection, and, I’m a wine lover too and I believe in the resurrection of Chianti. Granted—it took dedication, strict quality controls, and decades for Chianti to regain its international respect.
But baby—it’s back! Big time!
The wine center of Italy is Toscana—Tuscany. And the predominant grape in the area, and in true Chianti red wine, is Sangiovese. The name derives from the Latin meaning “the blood of Jove (Jupiter)”, thus, this wine can be strong and bold with typical flavors of cherry, plum, strawberry, spice, almonds, tobacco, tea-leaf, vanilla, and coffee. Sangiovese is known for its high acidity and that keeps the wine refreshing. Chianti goes great with well-seasoned foods, but, is still often called a “fruity” wine, meaning it appeals to new wine drinkers.

 
So how many of you “new” wine drinkers have tried it? A bunch of us wine enthusiasts for sure have enjoyed the Sangiovese Grosso grape which makes the world class wine of Brunello di Montacino, which certainly is the high-end Sangiovese—at high-end prices! But all us can agree that a good regular Chianti at ten bucks or less is a buy!
Truth be told, for as many wine lovers who enjoy Chianti for its distinct aromas and flavor profile, there are many other wine lovers that are not that crazy about the wine. Chianti definitely gives you an old world “terroir” or “earth” in the mix. It tastes like a European wine, not a Californian.
I’ve mentioned my son Paolo, who’s in his early thirties, loves wine and has an extensive wine collection that ranges around the world. But Chianti is not a wine that he’ll think about for tonight’s dinner.
Chianti is made all over the dry craggy hills outside of Florence in a timeless, ruggedly beautiful land where the cypresses stand tall against the cobalt sky as they must have 3,000 years ago when wine was first made in this part of the world. This wine with its rustic charms is unique. It’s a lip-smacking medium-bodied wine whose bright acidity and austere tannins is ideal to wash down a tasty Italian meal.
The fuller Chianti Classico, and their Riservas, and Brunello can more be seen as the wines of winter and we’ll have fun with them as we bundle down.
But for now, CV Weekly’s Wine of the Week is the 2011 Gabbiano Chianti that is selling for less than $8 a bottle at Pavillions/Vons, Rancho Mirage & Palm Springs, and at Ralphs Market in Palm Desert.
The winemaker’ notes: “The bouquet is reminiscent of ripe plums spiced with pepper and wood nuances. The first sip reveals invigorating flavors of sour cherry, blackberry, and spice followed by a dry vivid finish. This Chianti is bold enough to complement rich and spicy pasta dishes, and is also perfect with tangy chicken or gourmet pizza.”
The “secret” to really enjoy this 2011 Gabbiano is to decant the wine for around two hours before the meal. This is a very young red wine that will absolutely blossom a greater scent and much fuller flavors as it aerates in the decanter. This is one of the best exposures to a tasty Chianti for the price!
Divertiti! Enjoy!
Rick continues to host & entertain at wine tastings & events. Contact him at winespectrum@aol.com