By Rick Riozza
Perhaps more than a few of you are nonplussed at the fact that Chardonnays should ever be considered around Christmas time. Oftentimes we hear that the holidays are all about “comfort wine” which for them, euphemistically, means: give us a soft & tasty red wine!
These folks seem to forget that Chardonnay is the most popular white wine poured around the world—and that includes California as well! I know the ABC Group—the Anything But Chardonnay entourage, has been lobbying heavy here in town, but we’re suggesting—even to the point of pleading to our red wine enthusiasts to take a Chardonnay chill pill and consider pursuing a peaceful wine world this season.
Anyway—what’s the problem here: we recently covered a slew of Cab Sauv for three weeks straight! So let’s do consider some charming Chards for the holiday tables. And our recommendations may well surprise you; these will not be your auntie’s usual ultra table friendly Chardonnay. Rather, we’re proposing some very tasty Chards whose flavor profile should enlighten any “true” wine enthusiast, no matter what side of the aisle you’re on. Indeed, the wine may even surprise you ABC’ers. I hear it all the time: “Wow!—is that a Chardonnay!? Have fun—cheers!
The first surprise we have for you are the blanc de blancs Champagne & sparkling wines. Believe it or not, when I chat with ABC’ers at the wine bar, and I ask if they like dry Champagnes, such as a blanc de blancs—they chime in immediately that they love the stuff. And then I have to whisper, “You know—most dry Champagnes, especially blanc de blancs are 100% Chardonnay.” I’ve learned it’s a mistake to tell them because, prior, they were treating me to a couple glasses of wine; but when they leave the bar, I get the tab owing for my own wine. Easy come—easy go! Whaddya gonna do!
But let’s not blow your head off with a really high-priced wine for starters. This blanc de blancs bubbly is great California bottle, which has just been released with a new inviting label: The Mumm Napa Blanc de Blancs ($25), which is a sparkling blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Gris.
Yes—this was the sparkler many of you were fans of. but all of a sudden, it was discontinued over a year ago. Well it’s back with a new label and an exciting new aroma of lemony citrus, pear, pippin apple, & toasted biscuit. Wonderful flavors follow with a creamy notes of lemon & fresh-baked brioche followed by a long, elegant finish. This is an excellent appetizer bubbly, and it pairs beautifully with seafood – think oysters, linguine & clams, or crab. It’s also lovely with goat cheese & sliced apples.
If we still wish to keep things at a reasonable price in consideration of top quality, one does not have to get crazy on French blanc de blancs bubbly: the non-vintage Henriot Blanc de Blancs Champagne sells at only $55. This wine is made from grapes mainly from the Côte des Blancs and Grand Cru villages in the classic Champagne region. The bubbly contains about 30% “reserve” (older) wine to achieve the style desired by the producer. It tastes as French as you can get at the best price. Think of fresh pears and apricots on both the bouquet and the palate, along with a long and pleasant finish.
While we’re still discussing France, let’s again remind us wine folk that a “White Burgundy” is a French Chardonnay wine! It’s where California first grabbed their Chardonnay clones from! Yes—these are the famous Montrachets and Corton-Charlemagnes you’ve all heard of.
So if you happen to have fifteen hundred bucks lying around or thrown about on your dresser, and, you have a real inkling for some fabulous French Chardonnay wine, we recommend the 2021 Bouchard Pere & Fils Montrachet Domaine. We hear that this wine is lush and creamy with aromas and flavors full of peach, apple tart, lemon oil, citronella, baking spices, and toasty oak right at the get-go!
There’s such a long finish to this wine that we continue to hear about its endless aftertaste of orchard fruit, citrus, and spice oak notes. It’s Christmas in a bottle. What’s not to like about this Chardonnay—except for its price of course.
This brings us to yet another Chardonnay that owns two aliases: a white Burgundy particularly known as “Chablis” [SHAB-lee]. It’s produced way north in cold Burgundy so it always comes off as very fresh and minerally.
A great example of the taste of the region is the 2022 Simonnet-Febvre Chablis ($55). Known for its vibrant style, this wine shows peach, pear, floral, and mineral aromas and flavors. It has a wonderful balance of fruit and vivid acidity with polished river stones on the long finish.
At only $33, look for the 2023 Louis Moreau Chablis that is an example of a “ripe version”, boasting aromas and flavors of white flowers, peach, and yellow plum, with a briny hint of seashore. As expected, this wine is quite inviting and most charming.
Finally, let’s come back home to the comforting Chardonnay country of Sonoma. The 2022 Aubert Sonoma Coast UV-SL Vineyard ($100) is the Christmas charmer of the season! It’s a complex wine offering a rich and aromatic mix of salted caramel, nutmeg and cardamon, along with pear pastry and with peach notes, with a touch of candied fennel seed, lemongrass and candied ginger. As stated, the wine is rich but is vibrant due to its mouthwatering acidity
Oh!—and a quick shout-out to the 2022 J. Lohr Chardonnay Arroyo Seco Vista at only $25! Honestly—it’s a lighter version of the Aubert described above. Enjoy & Cheers!
