By Rick Rizza
For the holiday season, most red wine folk make a decision of either a Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir for the celebratory dinner table and fare. Some contend that the Cab Sauv is the “king” of red wine and Pinot Noir the “Queen”. So what moniker does Merlot” get? A Prince? A Jack? A Duke?—I dunno, you give it a name!
But for some reason, Merlot wine usually is not the first thing on the holiday mind. And one doesn’t know why. It would seem that Merlot is the perfect red wine: in the best examples of this variety, Merlot wine is so juicy and inviting and doesn’t usually have a bunch of scratchy tannins nor the scary streak of acidity to ruin any holiday meal and it generally has more of a fruit forward taste profile than Cab or Malbec.
Let’s remember that some of the world’s most expensive red Bordeaux wines—particularly in the prestigious Right Bank regions of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, are predominately blended with Merlot! And in the same wine world, Merlot can be found as some of the cheapest dollar bottles on the market.
It’s been over 20 years since Merlot was much maligned in the magnificent Sideways movie. https://coachellavalleyweekly.com/tasting-sideways-a-decade-later. These days everyone is back enjoying the original French Bordeaux grape that was named after the blackbird. Francophiles and Francophones argue whether the name came from describing the tiny, almost black-skin grape, or because the blackbirds loved to eat them straight off the vine.
Both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are the DNA children of Cabernet Franc and these two grapes are grown just about everywhere. Often confused with each other, Merlot, as mentioned above, is typically less tannic, softer and a bit fruitier than its more famous relative. Both varieties can have tons of aging potential and can go wonderfully with burgers or other red meats off the grill.
In Merlot, one can often find flavors of red and black fruits including cherry, raspberry, and plum. It also has softer and smoother tannins than other red wines, making it a good match for slightly spicy foods—there you go; chill it up and it’s perfect for Mexican and Hot Asian fare. Merlots are also a great match for chicken, duck, and pasta, and of course a perfectly grilled Ribeye or NY steak.
The best bottles of Merlot come from places like California, Washington State, France, and Italy—where it is often a component of Super Tuscan blends. In California, the 2019 vintage was an excellent one. If you can still find any out there—grab it!
And now, a couple of super delicious premium holiday Merlot treats for the wine enthusiast family:
Duckhorn has been making wine in California since 1978, and Three Palms Vineyard is one of Napa’s best-made single vineyard Merlot. It has received much critical acclaim and in 2017 Wine Spectator chose the 2014 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot as “Wine of the Year.” It is one of the most desired Merlots and is always a valued and welcome gift for the holidays for those who love fame & wine.
2022 Duckhorn Merlot Three Palms Vineyard, ($140) Winemaker Notes:
This vintage of our most celebrated Merlot continues the story of a vineyard steeped in history and craftsmanship. It begins with the vibrant allure of Bing cherries interwoven with the delicate fragrance of rose petals. As it unfolds, layers of cocoa and slate emerge. On the palate, the richness of plum and fig take center stage; its lushness framed by Three Palms’ signature dusty tannins and earthy minerality resulting from warm days and rocky well-drained soils.
2019 St. Supery Merlot Rutherford Estate ($75) Deep shades of red and purple commence this wine. Luscious, fresh black plum with some notes of dark, ripe raspberry, anise, and toasted oak combine with a hint graphite. Flavors of rich black cherry and mocha coupled with a subtle cinnamon, clove, and toffee. A smooth, silky pallet with elegant tannins presents this wine. Enjoy!
All the wine critics simply love this Merlot. Read on:
93 Points, James Suckling – “Aromas of crushed red and black cherries, ground spice and garden herbs. Full-bodied with velvety tannins. Inky, but not brooding, with subtle intensity and very good length. Nicely balanced.”
92 Points, Jeb Dunnuck – “The 2019 Merlot Rutherford Estate Vineyard comes all from Rutherford and is medium to full-bodied, and balanced, with juicy blueberry and cherry fruits, a kiss of spice and leafy herbs, nicely integrated acidity, and a clean finish. It’s another impeccably made wine from this team. The blend is 77% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Petit Verdot. I’d be thrilled to drink a bottle.
92 Points, Wine Spectator – “Opens with a burst of succulent black cherry and then turns on the structure, layering in savory herb and toasty spice flavors that finish with refined tannins.
91 Points, the Wine Advocate – “The 2019 Merlot Rutherford bursts with expressive notes of juicy black plums, boysenberries, and spice cake, plus suggestions of star anise, cedar, and wild sage. The medium to full-bodied palate has a firm, grainy texture and compelling tension supporting the vibrant black fruits, finishing with a real skip in its step.”
Now it’s time to raise our glasses to the mercurial moods of Merlot. Happy Holidays & Cheers!
