By Rick Riozza
“I don’t know what it is, but we can’t seem to shake off our continual discussion of the fabulous 2022 Bordeaux vintage.” You quaffers out there—who own a photographic memory, will remember, I’ve already used that line on one of last year’s article on Bordeaux.
On our first article (coachellavalleyweekly.com/bring-on-big-bang-bordeaux), we we broke the news of the wonderful ‘22 vintage; and then, we then went on to covering white Bordeaux https://coachellavalleyweekly.com/savvy-blancs-blends/. And then we couldn’t let go and offered up yet another one https://coachellavalleyweekly.com/bordeaux-on-the-bargain/
It’s true that the 2023 Bordeaux vintage (didn’t do as well) is already out. So this piece may well conclude our 2022 vintage coverage—but don’t take any huge bets on it: one never knows.
After all that—just in case you missed it, our wine-of-the week is the red Bordeaux Ma Copine Céline, which sells for under $7 when you do a supermarket’s deal of mix or match. It’s a great price for a ‘22 Bordeaux vintage—even for the fact that it is a very lower-end red wine: a perfect table wine that’s French to boot!
“My friend Copine” is its the English translation. Indeed—one can take it idiomatically to mean “My best friend Céline”. I’ve really not looked into it and do not know the “story” of this friendship—could be something there, but I’m simply enjoying the wine. The label itself states: “This wine is effortlessly chic, a little mysterious, and leaves you longing for more. Pairs perfectly with good company.”
A 14% ABV Bordeaux-style red blend, it is described as “Red fruit aromas follow through to a fresh wine packed with berry fruits; rich and soft, the texture and juicy freshness finishing with ease.” All right! Easy enough to feel good enjoying a French Bordeaux at such an easy price!
Speaking of Céline, I have a French acquaintance—not a best friend, whose name is Céline, and who lives in and around the French wine country of Chinon. For you folks in the know, you’ll remember that this is where Cab Franc grows wonderfully off the Loire River.
Way back in the day—let’s say over a hundred years ago, Chinon Cab Franc was rated equal to the Bordeaux Margaux! Currently, Cab Franc is the blending darling with Merlot on the Right Bank in Bordeaux. Yes—that right, the Cheval Blancs, and Le Pins all have a decent portion of Cab France mixed in. An actually, Cab Franc is blended just as much in the Left Bank. This grape is generally added to give the classic Bordeaux blend beautiful aromatics, violets, fresh herbs and a fine tannin structure.
But the Cab Franc in the Loire Valley is a bit of a different animal: A Chinon is one of the most silkiest and tender red wines in France. On its own and in an era of better and better wine making, Cabernet Franc, an otherwise finicky grape to manage on vine, is becoming an exciting wine as modern vintners maintain the delicate floral notes as they produce a light and lively red to take on the vegetable rich foods of autumn.
“Cab Franc is about red fruit flavors such as raspberry, cherry, and strawberry. In common with Cab Sauv, this red wine variety also has bell pepper notes. Many quaffers enjoy the savory elements of Cab Franc.
“Cab Franc wine typically has a medium-high acidity level, while Cab Sauv is typically considered a lower acid wine. The difference in acidity impacts wine pairing choices and the range of foods that work with each wine.
Funny to note is that this grape goes by a lot of different names; which tells us that this red grape has been around the block and more. In the Loire Valley—as opposed to Bordeaux, the Cab Franc goes by the name Breton. Other names include include Ardounet, Bidure, Boubet, Bouchet Franc, Bouchy, Breton, Burdeas Tinto, Cabernet, Cabernet Gris, Carmenet, Fer Servandou, Gamput, Gros Bouchet, Messanges Rouge, and Verdejilla Tinto. Talk about aliases! Fun stuff though!
Okay—so after all this talk about a red wine. What about a white Chinon!? Well, traditionally, you can’t have one. French regional wine law says is always a red wine. But we know where there is wine there will be white version at some winery around. (And while we’re thinking about it the famed Rosé d’Anjou, is the rosé made from the Cab Franc red fruit–we’ll discuss that one at another time.)
But back to a white Cab Franc from Chinon. Since you can’t legally make it with the Chinon name—just call it something else!
Enter now:Couly-Dutheil Blanc de Franc, so when Arnaud Couly makes a white from 100% Cabernet Franc, he calls it what it is: Blanc de Franc.
Through gentle pressing of the grapes, the juice separates from the skins, stripping away its anthocyanins and giving the wine a deep gold color. On the nose, crisp apple scents immediately stick out alongside hints of white flowers and strawberries.
On the palate, the Blanc de Franc is unmistakably fruit-forward. It’s juicy and lush, with hints of red fruit (a calling card to its origins as a red grape). Four months of post-fermentation fine lees aging adds a round, generous mid-palate texture. Beneath it all is the limestone minerality of Chinon’s tuffeau soils, rendering the finish long and complex.
Here’s nice sales pitch: Couly-Dutheil supplies 21 of France’s 26 Michelin three-star restaurants, so why not let them supply the wine for your next dinner? Serve this serious, structured white wine, well-chilled with freshwater fish, aged chèvre, or a board of rillettes, and then let your friends try to guess the grape. Have Fun!
A la nôtre! A la tienne!—Cheers!
