By Rick Riozza
This season we’ve really had a good time boasting about, what we claim, is the quintessential white wine of our desert valley: the Savvy Blanc, and yes, we continue to use our nick-name for the worldly Sauvignon Blanc: coachellavalleyweekly.com/savvy-blancs-blends, coachellavalleyweekly.com/savvy-blancs-from-savvy-south-africa.
However, we’re not adamant at all of any white wines that surely follow the demand of our cherished Coachella Valley. Case in point: Pinot Grigio. Who doesn’t like a soft, refreshing wine for our light meals in the midst of our hot climate. Well—there are a few vino lovers that simply cringe when you offer a Pinot Grigio in place of another white wine. Oh—they’ll take it if it’s on the house, but they do not wish to go on record that they can enjoy a Pinot Grigio. Whadda ya gonno do.
With that out of the way—let’s give this light refreshing wine a decent nickname like we did with Savvy Blanc. It’s not really our original idea, most folks in the wine biz already refer to Pinot Grigio as “pinot grige”. Some will even refer to the wine as simply a “grige”. I guess if you’re in a hurry, but let’s use the proper “pinot” term for the wine game players.
Many of you Coachella residents were aware of the fact that one of the most popular wine celebrities in America from the 1970s to the 2010s, had a place out here in La Quinta for a decade or so: Any Pinot Grige fan should recognize the name of Anthony “Tony” Terlato. Tony passed in 2020, but his wine company thrives.
Wine history will always note that it was Tony Terlato who introduced “Pinot Grigio” wine to America. Most folks back then knew about Mateus or Lancers Rosé wine, but just a handful of wine drinkers knew that Italy produced some really tasty white wine. One of the white wines produced around Venezia region was the now famed pinot grige.
Don’t hold me on specific details, but more or less—as the story goes, Tony was in the wine biz in Chicago and decided to head out to Italy to try a new wine to compete here in the states. On one trip, he tasted many Pinot Grigio brands and found that the Santa Margherita brand was the most interesting. He got a 10 year contract to exclusively sell the wine in the U.S., and the rest—well, became wine history.
The rumor was that Terlato got an additional 30 year contract to exclusively sell the pinot grige here. And as you know, the wine became ever popular here—even with its high selling price. Wine fans still buy the Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio by the case, no matter the price at $25 per bottle.
Well, as one would expect, finally, the Santa Margherita company told Tony, “Hey! We don’t need you anymore—we can sell our own stuff now.” So—it was like, “thanks for putting us on the world wine map, but after 40 years, time to kick rocks! I imagine you economists can see both sides to that situation.
Now the Terlato Wine Group company is producing their own stuff, and, owns a large portfolio of wines internationally.
But the credit goes to Santa Margherita and Tony Terlato. The success was incredible and lasted for decades, so much so that we could consider that wine one of the first truly structured wine “trends” in our country. Sixty years later, we must recognize this winery, now a giant with its companies in various regions of Italy, for having initiated a renewal in the way of making and proposing wine. But above all, it is a fact that, following that success, old and new wineries in Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia, and Alto Adige, rushed to plant new pinot grigio vineyards.
Wine nerds and those so interested, love the fact that the Pinot Grigio is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir, which probably originated in Burgundy. But in the course of history, people and grapes move on. Currently, one of the most prestigious areas for the cultivation of this grape variety is Alsace, where it produces wines of very high quality. Pick up any “Pinot Gris” (the French spelling) from the area and you’ll be happy.
By the way—the simple pinot grige grape can really take on a distinct flavor profile depending on the area or region it is grown. Oregon Pinot Gris takes on stone fruit; Alsatian takes on complex and smoky notes as compared to the Italian which is soft and floral.
In Germany, where the grape is called Grauburgunder, (translates to “Grey Burgundian) the wine is more mineral-driven and has higher acidity. Grauburgunder’s floral aromas and citrusy flavors come through beautifully, and these wines are often tinged with exotic spice notes. A wonderful surprise for all in the fact that Grauburgender is one of the world’s best food pairing wines! Steamed or grilled seafood, with or without heavy sauces; Colorful salads—apple, radish, fennel; bold and hard cheeses; pasta and meat dishes; desserts of honey, vanilla or marzipan!
The German Donnhoff Grauburgunder S (any vintage) is the bomb at forty bucks! Seriously concentrated pear aroma with delicate vanilla and lovely succulence. Then, a complex creamy, but decisively dry finish. Organically grown grapes.
2017 Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris (Alsace) ($30) Petrol mingles with straw and a saline hint of fresh oysters on the nose. This wine is savory with edgy mineral notes balanced by a hint of tart pineapple. It finishes on a savory, Alpine-cheese note along with palate-cleansing acidity. It’s serious and austere, a wine for contemplation.
Sun Goddess Pinot Grigio Ramato (Italian) ($17). The wine has gentle and elegant aromas of peach, apricot and fresh flowers, with a hint of ginger. Mix of stone fruit and a pop of green apple skin that perks things up with lively acidity on the finish.” An “orange wine”, for more info go to: https://coachellavalleyweekly.com/orange-you-thrilled-about-skin-contact/. Cheers!
