By Rick Riozza
I know you may think it’s way too early to make the claim that we already have in our midst the 2026 wine of the year (hey!—we haven’t even commented on Wine Spectator’s and The Wine Enthusiast’s 2025 Wine of the Year!!). But do take a breath, and, take the time to grab and savor the latest release of the 2023 Pensfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Limited Release Lunar New Year Horse Edition.
I know that’s a mouthful! But a “mouthful” of this stuff is what I desire! And the accolades are already coming in: “Celebrate an auspicious 2026 new year with Bin 389, a benchmark Penfolds wine. Wine enthusiasts from all over the world already know Penfolds is an iconic wine brand celebrated for its bold, multi-regional winemaking philosophy, pushing boundaries across continents since its founding in 1844.
Bin 389 has earned its reputation through its masterful blending of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, its luxurious balance of fruit and structure, and its maturation in the same American oak hogsheads used for world famous Grange Hermitage. Indeed, Bin 389 is now come to be known affectionately as Baby Grange!
2026—The Year of the Horse—signifies a new beginning driven by curiosity and renewed possibilities; and, Penfolds perfectly chimes in with the presentation of 2023 Bin 389 vintage presented in a beautifully illustrated Lunar New Year gift box featuring artwork honoring the Horse, symbolizing strength, vitality and good fortune. Presented in its limited-edition Lunar New Year packaging, the 2023 ‘Horse Edition’ is both a luxurious collector’s item and an exceptional gift for celebration. Featuring celebratory artistry across the label and gift box, the red, gold, and jade design radiates festive elegance to capture the vitality of the Horse through layered colors and textures that bring motion and energy to every detail.
Winemakers from all over knew that the 2023 vintage across key South Australian regions delivered moderate warmth, excellent fruit quality and ideal conditions for both Cabernet and Shiraz. These conditions allowed Penfolds to craft a Bin 389 with hallmark depth, vibrancy and impressive cellaring potential.
We enjoyed this wine over the New Year’s celebration and these were our notes: The bouquet is expressive and complex, offering a plethora of wonderful aromas which included blackcurrant, blackberry, plum and mulberry. Notes of mocha, vanilla, licorice, cedar and warm spice enrich the profile, layered with hints of graphite, chocolate and savoury herbs. Talk about contemplative: one could “nose the wine” for minutes on end!
I remember back in the late 80’s when Americans got wind of the Australian Cab Sauv and Shiraz blend. It caught fire here, and the blend continues to impress. The winery continues to proclaim: “A standard bearer for the great Australian blend for over 60 years. A wine greater than the sum of its parts, Bin 389 stands testament to Penfolds time-honored blending philosophy.”
Here, on the palate, the 2023 Bin 389 is full-bodied, polished and beautifully composed. Cabernet provides structure, definition and fine tannins, while Shiraz contributes richness, plush fruit and mid-palate weight. Flavours of dark berries, cocoa, spice and roasted coffee unfold across a velvety texture. Balanced acidity lifts the wine, leading to a long, seamless finish of fruit, spice and integrated oak.
Wine critics from around the world are also offering great reviews:
“This wine has been made every vintage since 1960. Refined, generous and polished aromas of blackberries, blackcurrants, cured meat, crushed stones and iodine. The palate is full-bodied with a rounded, textural palate and ultra-refined tannins that lead to a silky, savory, black-fruited finish. 51% cabernet sauvignon and 49% shiraz. Excellent.” James Suckling
“The 2023 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz is inky, complete, powerful and structured, with black berries, sweet licorice, star anise and fennel. There are also notes of roasted meat juices and cedar wood. The expression of this wine is very attractive—the prism of the cooler season works well in this wine. The fruit is sourced from McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Barossa Valley, matured for 12 months in American oak hogsheads, 33% new.” 95 points Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Distinctive for its appealing savory thread, with notes of crushed pine needle, forest floor, sage, olive tapenade, rosemary and tobacco leaf that complement the core of spiced plum, dried cherry and blackberry preserves. Offers a firm, muscular structure for an appealing backbone. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. 93 points Wine Spectator
The 2023 Cabernet Shiraz Bin 389 is well composed with a claret shape. It has focused layers of blackcurrant and graphite with a gentle core of chocolaty richness and oak sitting perfectly in place. This has excellent tension, a backward, more structural style and fleshy flavors in reserve. The 2023 is at a young age in a package that is drying and tight. Masterful blending is visible here and this will age well. 93 points Vinous
And check out this review I found on the web—dunno who wrote it but I like their Black Forest cake & Portuguese custard comment:
“We are greeted by the wine’s hallmark bouquet, featuring an intricate blend of dark fruit aromas, with the richness of blackberries and the juicy depth of plums holding attention. These scents are complemented by notes of shaved dark chocolate and Black Forest cake. Hints of Portuguese custard and cinnamon sugar bring sweetness, while the exotic spiciness of pecan-infused hummingbird cake contrasts with the savory”
Here’s to the Year of the Horse! Cheers!
