By Rick Riozza
Of course, we are all looking forward to the fantastic feasts and festivities that come with the holiday season. And for us wine enthusiasts, we can’t wait to complete the culinary picture with the perfect bottle—okay, bottles, of wine.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot will get their share of coverage this holiday season; however, as our title suggests—or rather, simply states, red blends will be our topic now.
Indeed, whether you know it or not, red blend wines are now the second most popular red wine in the U.S. after Cab Sauv, and continue to dominate its own sector of wine markets all around. One can almost say that the red blend is trendy across the globe.
But hey!—there’s really no new news here: red blends have been around since the origins of winemaking. From casual table wines to prominent bottles like the original wine blend, Bordeaux, winemakers have been blending wines for centuries. But red blend wines, in particular, have increased in popularity over the year for their complexity and great variability.
Not really such a brain twister here, the term “red blend” refers to red wine made from more than one red grape varietal. Red blends are produced around the world and vary tremendously based on what types of grapes are used and where they are grown.
Common grape combinations used to make red blend wine include Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Merlot-Malbec and Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedré—typically shortened as G-S-M in California wines. Others involve more complex formulas. For instance, Bordeaux- style red blends are traditionally made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Merlot, but can also incorporate Malbec, Carmenere and Petite Verdot.
Generally, red blends are either labeled based on where they come from, like Bordeaux or simply labeled as a red blend. New World red blends are the bottles you’ll find in the “red blend” section of your supermarket or wine shop. They tend to carry labels like G-S-M, red blend or red wine. These producers may or may not list the type of grapes in the wine: it’s a fun guessing game if you wish it to be so. Otherwise you’d have to do a little digging around the web or chat with your friendly neighborhood wine steward as what it in that baby.
On the other hand, Old World red blends like Chianti Classico and Rioja, are labeled by where they come from. But no one in European vineyards are calling them red blends. Chateau Margaux, Cotes du Rhone and Super Tuscans are other examples of Old World blends that fall into this category.
Red blends can take on a wild array of colors, aromas, flavors, structures and ageability. Therefore, when it comes to what makes a good red blend wine, there’s no simple answer.
And what keeps red blends in the limelight is that they’re so different from place to place. For example, a Chianti Classico made predominately from Sangiovese grapes grown in Italy will taste nothing like a typical California blend of Syrah, Merlot and Zinfandel.
Generally, a good red blend will be made from quality grapes in a combination that balances the five most important components of wine: sweetness, acidity, tannin, alcohol and body. We’ve all heard that blending is a good way to get more complexity into a wine. Generally that’s true, as they are often smoother in texture and more interesting when you taste them. But be careful here, some of us really like the grit and challenge of a single varietal wine. But they’re your taste-buds—go for it!
We talked about the Californian G-S-M red blend made from Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, These wines, originally hailing from regions such as the Rhône Valley in France and the Barossa Valley in Australia, offer incredible blends of fruitiness, spice, and earthiness, perfect for those looking to elevate their holiday menu and impress discerning guests.
A great example of a winning Santa Barbara Rhone-style blend is the 2018 Margerum M5 Reserve at around $30. Doug Margerum and winemaker Michael Miroballi are hitting their stride on this annual blend, which in this vintage includes 47% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre, 2% Counoise and 2% Cinsault from eight vineyards. Rich aromas of backed boysenberry, purple flower, turned earth and star anise lead into a palate that slides from lavender to elderberry with ease, as white pepper and dried thyme elevate the complexity. 96 points.
Another fantastic Santa Barbara G-S-M is the 2021 Stolpman GSM from Ballard Canyon ($30) Rugged aromas of wild boysenberry, dark plum and brown spice make for an intense nose on this blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah. The palate is hearty, offering roasted berry, marjoram and curry-leaf flavors, as tension rises on the finish. 94 points.
I’m often asked to recommend an excellent steak wine. I always assume that the steak in question is probably a New York cut or a Rib-Eye—probably grilled or cooked in hot cast iron. For the price, I’m going with the 2021 Francis Coppola Diamond Series Black Label Claret at under $20 a bottle.
This red blend is alluring and sophisticated; it is memorably lush with a tapestry of smooth tannins and succulent flavors of wild berries, plum and anise—and, it tastes great with your steak! You’d probably recognize the bottle as it borrows tradition of European wineries, adding gold netting to bottle to signify outstanding quality of wine.
Cheers!
Rick is your friendly neighborhood wine steward and sommelier. He can be reached at winespectrum@aol.com.
