By Rick Riozza
For as many people who trot over to Trader Joes to pick up a bottle or two of some inexpensive Côtes du Rhône red wine, some forget that California is also on the world class map when it comes to the Grenache, Syrah & Mourvèdre red blend wines.
Indeed, the California GSM category—who really enjoyed a rockin’ & rollin’ heyday over a decade ago, continue to produce stellar wines, but for some reason, that same wine blend is currently having an identity crisis: Are these wines fruit bombs or savory; are we having these wines with steak or barbecue grilling; are these wines full-force alcohol or moderate? Can one even adequately describe a Cal Grenache, Syrah & Mourvèdre blend?
Here in the desert, whether shopping at Trader Joe’s, your favorite supermarket, or the few remaining wine shops in our valley, the southern French Côtes du Rhône red wine sell very well; they’re very popular because they are full flavor wines at reasonable prices.
The “Côtes du Rhône-style red wines in Calfornia—the GSMs, produce some very delicious wine that typically offer a harmonious balance of red and black fruits, with added complexity and spice from the blend’s distinct varietal characteristics and a touch of garrigue or earthy notes, reflecting their traditional French origins.
Although Californians really love the traditional French varietals—here in particular, Grenache, Syrah & Mourvèdre, they seem to prefer them grown here in our state. Like Bordeaux, with their French Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, many local wine folk gravitate to these varietals grown here in California: hey—it’s “new world” fruit with more pronounced fruit flavors for the masses.
Nerd/Enthusiast Alert: In California GSM, Grenache contributes red fruit, such as raspberry, strawberry and cherry along with a rounded supple texture; Syrah adds structure, darker fruit flavors like blackberry and plum and sometimes provides some smoke, mocha, pepper and spice; Mourvèdre contributes tannins, spice, and savory notes—from bacon to tar, from tobacco to leather, herbs and florals, all of which provide depth and structure to the blend.
With all that flavor and taste profile in mind, we can see that the blend pairs well with grilled meats, especially lamb and beef, and can complement our up-coming rich and savory holiday dishes. Plus these wines are such a flavor package in a glass, they are great as an apéro before dinner,and, work as well as a savory after-dinner quaff.
You folks in the know are familiar with the California Central Coast which owns acres and acres of coastal windswept hillsides where the GSM grapes can flourish. Ditto that, 500 miles to the north, where the Sonoma Coast and Mendocino County also produce stellar stuff. That’s right! With all the global warming going on, parts of Mendocino can experience Mediterranean-style climate.
Wine Critic Aaron Romano writes: “As divergent as the northern and southern growing regions of California can be, the 2023 vintage yielded remarkably similar and dreamy conditions. Above-average rainfall, combined with mild and steady temperatures, allowed for optimal flavor development resulting in wines with lower alcohol content and good natural acidity…great flavors, with ripe but fresh fruit.”
Romano goes on to quip, “It’s time to stop thinking of these GSMs as castaways on an island of misfit wines and celebrate them for what they are: distinctive, regional versions of their French counterparts.”
And now: some tasty GSMs that have made it over & on to our tasting table.
To get things started on a light and easy note with an inexpensive model to wet one’s whistle and get you in on the GSM wine game, consider the 2023 Hahn Estate Founders GSM. ($12). This entry wine is bang for the buck. We agree with the winery notes: “Layers of raspberry, vine-ripe black cherry, and strawberry meld together beautifully. Hints of white pepper and cinnamon adds dimension. This wine offers a velvety mouthfeel and a long finish with a touch of vanilla.”
This wine would be great with lamb loin chops, Falafel sliders, Sesame Chicken & Mediterranean Chicken.
Another excellent reasonably priced GSM from the very popular Cline Family Cellars, up in Sonoma and Contra Costra counties, is their 2023 Cashmere Red California ($15). Cashmere is a very flavorful, smooth wine offering big cherry aromas with raspberry and chocolate notes and hints of cracked black pepper and plum. Its flavors show strawberry, blueberry, orange cream, dried fennel, chocolate shavings, and a dry juicy finish. How about that for a flavor profile!
We’ve written on Margerum wines from the Santa Barbara and Los Olivos area in the past. Their 2023 MS Santa Barbara County at only $17 is the deal of the day. Scoring 90 points at Wine Spectator, “sleek in feel, showing lovely purity with lavender and blood orange notes infused with strawberry and fresh herb accents.” This wine clearly has a lot of Grenache going on!
Another bang for the buck quality wine at $30 for a 92 pointer is the 2022 Newfound Gravels California. The winemakers express: “Bright aromatics, luxardo cherry, sage, dried rose petal. The palate maintains its red fruit intensity and carries through with supple mid-palate that’s more linear than broad. We suggest serving this bottling at cellar temperature or with a slight chill.”
And finally for the big bucks, 2021 Epoch Syrah York Mountain at $105. We were all happy sampling this baby! Definitely French & new world at the same time! Powerful with dark fruit flavors like blackberry and cassia, complemented by notes of licorice, coffee, meat, and floral elements, with an “ethereal and elegant” structure that balances its intensity. One for the ages that can indeed age on!
Cheers!
