By Rick Riozza
Hi Everyone!! Siamo Ritorno—we’re back! As some of you emailers know, I’ve been traveling throughout Europe these past couple of months and I have a lot of fresh Euro vineyard news to share with you all. And for you California dreamers and vino lovers, I see a bunch of California wine sample bottles, standing at attention as good soldiers do, awaiting me to taste so we can bring everyone up to speed—wine wise. So please stay tuned!
We first landed in Paris, of course, and I thought I’d take a day’s jaunt over to the Champagne region that’s centered in and around the ancient town of Reims—the central hub for the prestigious Champagne industry. We’ve commented before that although most Champagne lovers here in the states are already familiar with the city “Reims”, as they’ve seen the name on many Champagne bottles, the town, however, is not really pronounced like “reems”, as English speakers would assume. It’s actually pronounced: “rance”—easy to remember because it rhymes with “France”.
Anyway—if one takes the TGV, aka the French speed-train, from Paris to Reims, a distance of 90 miles, you could get there is less than 45 minutes! Many Franco-phile, American travelers, miss out on the fact that they are so close to some of their favorite Champagne vineyards and wineries just less than an hour away. Next time you particular wine folk get over to Paris—think about checking out Reims.
Reims is famous for its historical role in the coronation of French monarchs, its magnificent Gothic cathedral. It’s often called the “City of Coronations” due to the numerous kings crowned at its world famous Notre-Dame Cathedral of Reims (also known as the Cathedral of Reims) has been the site of coronations for many French kings, including Clovis I, Pepin the Short, and Charles X. This long-standing tradition earned Reims major prominence in the Christian faith because the new king enters the city and comes up to the Cathedral riding in on a mule.
So pretty much every famous French Champagne House has their winery and/or their vineyards in and or around the region of the town. If you wished to visit and taste through the Champagnes portfolio of all of the various Champagne Houses there, you’d have to spend over a week—drinking or rather “tasting” morning, noon & night.
I did not have that luxury. I had family arriving that evening and needed to get back to Paris in time to celebrate with my children’s and grandchildren’s first dinner in the City of Light.
One could take a tour bus around and enjoy the sights and tastes of this world famous region. I, personally, had invites to smaller wineries and vineyards. Having a time-line to consider, we know how fast time can fly when chatting up with vintners, and tasting through their proud portfolio.
So I took a taxi and of course enjoyed a wonderful time with the local smaller Champagne vintners, and, I will review their wines in up-coming columns—which you’ll see, are great Champagne deals.
But just for kicks & say-so grins, I wanted to finish off my Reims visit to a winery/visiting room that was world-class famous: Tattinger Champagne House was the “closest” to the center of Reims, keeping in mind that I could grab a taxi to the train station in time. The last train out of Reims back to Paris, that had passage for me, was at 5pm. All other trains were booked solid.
After tasting & talking to the Tattinger House, I noticed I had over an hour and a half to make my 5pm train. Leaving that venue, I walked outside and it began to rain. I thought I’d find a taxi available right out of the gate—no luck, So I’m ducking in and out of cover still trying to hail a cab while walking towards what I think is the way to the train station.
Now most of you readers know I’m definitely “old school”, so no surprise here, I’m not carrying around a smart phone—and actually, no cell phone at all.
But as I’m bipping about, I spy a sports bar and notice they have the
Roland Garros French Tennis Tournament on the large TV. Thinking I’ve got plenty of time, I duck in, order an Armagnac at the bar and settle in to watch a very good competitive tennis match. It gets to around 4:30 and I ask the bartender to call me a taxi.
Ten minutes later, he says he can’t find anyone available.
It hits me: I’m 20 minutes from my train departing and I don’t know where it’s located and I don’t know how far away it is. I ask the French sports barflys how far is the train station. They say about 3 kilometers and they point in “that” direction. I take off as fast as I can walk towards “that” direction.
It’s raining, I’m panicking that I probably will not make it out of here in time, and imagining my family wondering where the hell I am. I’m too old for this stuff! With two titanium knees (i.e., lifetime tennis player) I really can’t run all out, but I walk as fast as I can, fueled by shots of Armagnac, though the town of Reims. I even broke my Hoka shoes in the rain and in the tumultuous haste.
How I was able to jump onto the train with the door closing seconds behind me was definitely a God-thing. Whew!!
And now: The delicious Canard-Duchêne Cuvée Léonie Brut ($38). Such a great Champagne for the price! it is seductive and elegant. To the eye, a pale gold color. To the nose, lightly stewed yellow fruits, tropical fruits, dry flowers, and notes of gingerbread. On the palate, fresh with flavors of pineapple confit, an open-knit range of cherry, candied lemon peel, slightly spicy with toasted flavors. À la tienne, à la nôtre!
