By Rick Riozza
As summertime sets in our desert, we wish to show some love to the bubblies and sparklers that got us through those hot summer winds. For you sensitive folk who sentimentalize a share of melancholy whenever one of the four seasons departs forever—never to be experienced again, i.e., the summer of 2025, let’s help you out with a little reminiscing of the chilled sparklers we enjoyed.
Do remember however, in the game of wine, we can play with time: yes! Most of the Champagnes, vino spumanti & frizzanti, cavas, proseccos, cremants, and all-around sparklers are (perhaps) still available on most market shelves. La bella vita del gusto del passato—the good life of tasting the past.
And generally speaking—it’s indeed tasting the past that is unique to vintage wine: a culinary collection of memories properly packaged for you to revisit & reminisce. Cheers!
Well alright then, let’s taste & test our memories:
Probably the best bang for the buck we paid was for the J Vineyards NV Cuvée 20 Brut, at $35, and the J Vineyards NV Sparkling Brut Rosé,at around $45. Both bottles brought the flavor, feel, and festivity that sparkling wine lovers delighted in.
From the best cool-climate vineyard sites in the Russian River Valley with aromas of toasted almond and notes of apple, dried cranberry with a soft palate of lemon meringue pie flavors as the wine’s creaminess is whisked away by a lively finish. The wines were delicious, with lively acidity, steely minerality, framed a lingering lush finish.
J Vineyards NV Cuvée 20 Brut. Many folks who enjoyed and offered this wine to their luncheon guests were bowled away; and, they went on to purchase a magnum of the stuff that was widely available. This easy-drinking Sonoma bubbly, sourced from Russian River Valley sites and created in honor of J Vineyard’s 20th anniversary, it’s creamy and smooth on the palate with hints of lemon custard and pear. There’s a toasty note, too, but there’s nothing buttery here. Just straight-up California sunshine in a bottle.
J Vineyards NV Sparkling Brut Rosé ($50): Hand-harvested, the grapes in J’s Brut Rosé are full of depth and richness, resulting in enhanced, vibrant flavors. The aromas started with strawberry, raspberry, Fuji apples, rose petals, and toasted hazelnuts. The palate is ripe raspberry, blood orange, and blanched almonds. A Rosé for the times!
When it came to enjoying a Franciacorta—the Italian version, if you will, of a French Champagne, there was no better deal than the Berlucchi NV’61 Extra Brut Sparkling, at $40.
Quoting our own comments: “Franciacorta, a small wine region in Lombardy, Italy, is known for producing sparkling wine made in Méthode Champenoise style from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. This non-vintage release is 85% Chard and 15% Pinot Noir: a classic profile most seem to prefer for its freshness that’s balanced with creaminess. Where California sparklers may exhibit apple and citrus, Franciacorta hints of wildflowers and marzipan. It’s irresistible!”
And speaking of French Champagne, we didn’t have to look far and deep into vintage Champagne to get a classic tasting bottle. Henriot Brut Soverain Non-Vintage brought the very best in French at only $65 a bottle. This bubbly matched up against most vintage stuff that was priced over the hundred dollar mark.
The expressive nose from 45% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 15% Meunier, a typical Henriot is more herbal than toasty. What was particularly noticeable was its bubble size: medium with enough heft to carry to the back of the palate but not too soft to disappear. One wine critic wrote,”this bad boy from a Champagne house founded by a woman, can handle Indian spice, raw fish and Parma ham with aplomb.”
For those in our crowd who were craving Spanish Cava, the 2018 Juvé Y Campas Brut Nature Cava Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva. ($18), was the ticket. The winery’s tasting notes state: “Pale gold in color, this Cava has aromas of mature white peach, toasted bread and green tea with hints of lemon citrus and apricots. Equally rich and broad on the palate, these flavors continue to unfold on the palate. Pair with: paté, seafood, tapas, paellas, grilled poultry or cured meats. 91 Points—if they do say so themselves!
And talking about memories, many wine-themed weddings always seem to offer one of the best California sparklers around: 2018 Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée Green Valley of Russian River, at around $55. Iron Horse Winery states: “This is Iron Horse’s most romantic bubbly. We describe the 2018 Wedding Cuvée as dangerously easy to drink. Warm straw color with a pure mousse, this fruit forward, elegantly dry bubbly, displays ultra tiny bubbles and an exceedingly long finish.”
Wine Spectator wrote: “This beautiful bubbly is stately yet festive, with effusive raspberry and zesty lemon flavors accented by graham cracker and ginger. 94 points!”
And finally, a most recognized sparkler out there (Indeed—heavy on the sparkles!) is the Martini & Rossi Asti DOCG, at only around $15! I don’t know why I had always rolled my eyes when it came to this bubby in the stores. Back then it was known as “Asti Spumante”. And the term “spumante” means some sputting bubbles for sure. But I like a genuine Moscato wine from the Asti Piemonte region—and this new “Asti” is quite tasty.
Last year’s holiday cocktail was the French 75. The drink is quick to make with no complicated ingredients – a sparkler, gin, lemon juice, simple syrup—and is festive without fuss. Made from Moscato Bianco it’s aromatic and floral on the nose. And the wine itself pairs easily with everything from cheese to chocolate.
Cheers to the memories!
