By Rick Riozza
I don’t know about you wine folks, but just catching the latest world news this past holiday week along with hearing the low approval ratings on all fronts, makes me reach out for some soothing & satisfying sparkling wine to relax!
For many of us enthusiasts, at this time of year, it’s all about the bubbles!! Indeed! Just thinking about quaffing some delicious bubblies and sparklers makes me feel better already. You too! Cool!
So let’s jump right in on some French Champagne. It’s the time of year that we treat ourselves to a wonderful bottle of bubbles: 2015 Salon Blanc de Blancs. For you readers who can reach into your deep pockets, this is just the 45th vintage to be declared worthy of the Champagne Salon name since the house began this tradition in 1905.
And Salon has taken the rather unusual step of releasing it ahead of the 2014 vintage. So you know that this one’s special, but then you take that first celestial sip and realize what this legend’s fanatical pursuit of perfection really means. Sourced from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger’s finest parcels, and aged a full decade on the lees, it’s a marvel of the winemaking art, and embodies everything that’s made Salon such a transcendent force. Your cost here would be around a thousand bucks! And when are you inviting us over for the celebration!?
“Exquisite … gorgeous,” sighed Vinous, noting, in its 97-point rave, how “the flavor profile leans towards the more citrus, floral and mineral-driven end of the spectrum typical of cooler years, and yet the wine is also wonderfully open-knit and accessible, with no hard edges and the textural balance that is more common in warmer years.” In sum: “a Champagne of cool sophistication and total polish.”
The wine column, Vinous’ tasting notes: “What struck us, in our recent tasting, was how it manages to be both steely and generous, finely structured yet approachable. Exactly the kind of paradox, in other words, that only truly great Champagne can pull off. There’s an almost electric minerality running through everything, that signature Salon chalk that builds slowly in the mouth until it makes its presence really and truly felt.
“Citrus and floral notes dip and dance around this mineral core, never upstaging it, while nearly a decade on the lees has created a texture that leans into the creamy. The finish goes on and on, and you’re left with the rare sensation of having tasted something that cannot be repeated. Sublime.” Well—we guess so!
Okay! Coming back down to earth, let’s report on some of our usual favorite bubblies:
2021 Iron Horse Brut Green Valley of Russian River Valley Classic Vintage ($58) The Iron Horse brand is world known and in a premium California sparkling wine.
“Shows finesse and handsome structure, with multi-layered pear and strawberry flavors, highlighted by fresh ginger, blanched almond and yeast notes that linger on a crisp finish. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.” Wine Spectator, 94 points.
For those who like to venture out-of-the-box from the usual California stuff can look to an Oregon sparkler: 2022 Brut Rosé Willamette Valley ($30). This is a delicious rosé bubbly at a great price!!
“A creamy succulent sparkler, showing refreshing flavors of raspberry, peach, and orange blossoms that gather richness on the finish.” WS 93 points!
One of our favorite sparklers always on the scene is the 2021 J Blanc de Noirs Russian River Valley ($75). “Fragrant and elegantly structured, showing apple and cherry flavors accented by ginger and cinnamon as this zips along the fresh finish.” WS 92 points!
Finally—most of us sparkler customers go back and forth with the Mumm’s California brand and the Domaine Chandon brand. It seems that each year they trade on wine scores that rate the highest!
This year, we’re finding that Domaine Chandon Rosé California NV (non-vintage) scores at 91 points and sells for the very reasonable price of around $20. “A creamy and festive version, with lively accents of cherry, lemon, rose petal and graham cracker that glide on a spicy finish.” Cheers! And Happy New Year!!
Rick is your somm-about-town tasting here & there at his favorite wine haunts. Contact him at winespectrum@aol.com and let him know what your favorite wine venues you’d like to see him write on in this column.
