By Rick Riozza
The cocktail scene is still upon us. Due to social media and advertising, more folks are trying out interesting and unique concoctions than ever before. One reason is that there are more alcoholic and non-alcoholic mixers on the market to think about—and try. For instance, check out our recent coachellavalleyweekly.com/the-ficks-is-in.
Enter now the venerable vermouth. Yup—it’s been around for longer than you can remember. And it continues to sell off the market shelves every week. Every so often, even supermarkets run out of the stuff! We think its sales are fueled by the gin boom and the resurgence of the Negroni, Manhattan, and most satisfying Martini craze!
For as popular as it’s become, there are a few folks out there that are still a little uncertain of what vermouth really is: it is indeed a wine, and historically a medicinal remedy, when the wine was infused with natural healing botanicals. In the 18th Century, when better wines were making their stride in France & Italy, the alchemists in the day (known as bartenders in our day) were all about creating a brew that worked and treated medically and entertainingly.
It is also a “fortified” wine along the lines of sherry, port, and Madeira, in that a neutral grape-based spirit is adding to buck up the alcohol content.
Every so often, cone can stump a wine nerd by asking what grapes are used to produce vermouth. And perhaps, through hems & haws, we’ll get an answer that includes a trade of European whites: Clairette, Trebbiano, Piquepoul and a host of others.
Every vermouth brand has their own “proprietary” blend of not only grapes but many different botanicals and aromatics, including spices, tree bark, roots, seeds, fruits, etc.
One of the most popular vermouth brands on the market is the line-up over at Marini & Rossi. Recently—jumping in on the cocktail surge, they’ve rebranded. Their PR states: “Martini vermouth is stepping back into the spotlight with a comprehensive transformation that honors its vermouth origins while embracing contemporary design.”
And I must say that their new bottle & label design is very cool! Inspired by the elegant porticoes of Torino – the birthplace of vermouth—the new design now graces Martini’s Rosso, Bianco, Extra Dry, Fiero, and the alcohol-free Vibrante and Floreale line-up.
They claim, “It’s like giving a classic Italian suit a modern tailoring—the essence remains, but the presentation speaks to today’s consumers. Martini’s way of building a bridge between its 162-year heritage and the evolving aperitivo culture that’s captivating new generations worldwide.” And so it goes.
For you nerds and wine trivia buffs: “Here’s where things get particularly interesting for vermouth enthusiasts. After years of absence, the word “vermouth” is officially returning to Martini Rosso, Bianco, and Extra Dry labels. This isn’t merely a marketing decision, it represents a technical commitment to the vermouth category.
“The story behind this change is rooted in Italian regulation. Previously, Martini had reduced the alcohol content of their Rosso and Bianco to 14.4% ABV, which fell just short of the 14.5% minimum required by law to carry the “vermouth” designation for red and white varieties. Now, they’ve bumped both back up to exactly 14.5% ABV, while maintaining Extra Dry at its traditional 18% ABV (dry vermouths require a minimum of 16%).
“This adjustment is the only modification made to the original recipes – formulas that have remained largely unchanged since they were perfected between the late 1800s and early 1900s. It’s like restoring a vintage car to its original specifications while keeping the engine that made it legendary.” Their words, not ours!
In most brands, generally the green bottle is a dry version, and a red bottle is a sweet. However, check the label: in Italian, if the label has the term “Bianco” it’s a sweeter version of vermouth no matter the green bottle. Always look for “Extra Dry” for the least amount of dosage of sugar.
And now: Marini & Rossi’s vermouth comments:
“The Bianco is a luminous expression of the aperitivo lifestyle, offering a light, refreshing taste with delicate notes of vanilla and aromatic herbs.”
The Rosso carries notes of balsamic reduction, spices, dried citus peel, and bay leaf.
The Rosato is a “warmer’ version of the Rosso; this has clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon
The Extra Dry is herbal and crisp with sage, coriander, and allspice. It’s said to be made up of over 30 herbs & spices—geez!
The Fiero has astrong citrus presence with blood orange, grapefruit, and herbs. Folks say it’s like Aperol but a bit less sweet and more refreshing.
“Vermouth has a really broad array of applications. It is so versatile that it can be the star of a cocktail instead of sitting in the back seat,” explains Alan Lam, beverage director of NYC’s Eataly Flatiron. “The point in any cocktail is to make sure it is not overpowering or has a flavor that is all over the place.” For instance, “Whisk(e)y and vermouth naturally balance each other. Vermouth softens the more powerful whisk(e)y, and the result is a well-integrated cocktail. The applications are endless.
Those looking for a lower-proof drink that can satisfy cravings while keeping the alcohol consumption in check, bartenders are experimenting with “reverse” cocktails, which switch the ratios. A reverse Manhattan would be 2 parts vermouth and 1 part whisk(e)y.
Finally, because it is a fortified wine, it lasts (or doesn’t sour) as quickly as typical white wine. Give it one to three months after being opened; and the best advice is to store in in the fridge for up to 3 months or so. It’s also an excellent cooking wine and goes remarkably well in my sometimes “on or off” risotto. Cheers!
