By Rick Riozza
In our last column, we made sure not to cause you wine newbies to have to think of yet another category of wine to remember: autumn wine. We’re just using that idea to talk about the traditional new wine releases that are displayed on our market shelves at this time of year. Yup—you guessed it, just in time for the coming holiday tables and for gifting.
Further, let’s not forget that many of us find the Fall season to be heaven on earth and there is something for everyone to fall in love with—the foliage, the smells, the crisp breeze (if we’re lucky here in the desert), traveling the different cities, the comforting food, and, the comforting wine. There are indeed particular varietals of wine, we think, that tend to match the season. Here are some of our favorite categories to fall in love: Both sensual and nostalgic. We’ll be quoting and referencing from our favorite From The Vine website.
Probably the most popular red wine for the fall season is the Pinot Noir. The classic flavor profile of this wines include black and red cherries, (dark) chocolate, cinnamon, cloves, coffee, cola, cranberries, earth, flowers, herbs, leather, mushrooms, plums, raspberries, smoke, spices, strawberries, tobacco, truffles, and violets. Is this the ultimate red for the holidays or what. There are opposing views that we’ll take up another time.
Northwest Oregon, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is a great example of a cool-climate, elegant wines that express the characteristics above, making them a real gem with fall foods. Pair with roasted chicken, portabella mushrooms and especially with anything on the Thanksgiving table.
We like the 2022 Ponzi Laurelwood Pinot Noir ($45) Winemaker’s Notes: The initial nose offers warm raspberry jam, chili pepper and chipotle balanced by flinty notes of gunsmoke and red clay. These notes open to rose petals, magnolia, cloves, and salt air. The mouth holds long, dark tannins of cola, white pepper, and spices of star anise, cardamom, and juniper, finishing with an explosion of blue fruit.
Syrah has lots of personality no matter where it’s grown, and Northern Rhône versions are exceptional versions of this bold red wine. These Syrahs are packed with aromas and flavors of blue and black fruits, violets, and often black licorice, white pepper, graphite or a savory, meaty aspect. There is also an intriguing smoky quality that gives extra appeal to enjoying a glass by the fireplace on a cold autumn evening.
20218 Domaine des Remiziers Cuvee Christophe Crozes Hermitage, ($38). Sprays of cinnamon, clove and cedar accent plush black currant and blueberry in this bold red Syrah sourced from vines averaging 65 years in age. Matured 15 months in a combination of new (70%) and one-year old (30%) oak barrels, it’s a rich, sultry wine shaded by crushed stones, smoke and licorice. Ripe, silky tannins make it ready to enjoy now.
I know you loyal readers are just waiting for an Italian recommendation: Barbera is an excellent choice for an autumn wine. In fact, even though it’s not as popular in the states, it’s actually considered Northern Italy’s “go-to grape”, as you can almost always find it near the dining table. What people love about it—especially for the fall—is that it can taste both rich and light-bodied, giving the fruit flavors of a heavy bodied wine but the mouthfeel and easy drinking of a light-bodied red—thanks to good acidity. If you’re looking for a treat on a cool fall night, this is the one.
We love the 2020 Vietti “Tre Vigne” Barbera ($22). I was fortunate to meet Currado Vietti over at Disneyland’s Napa Rose restaurant over a dozen years ago, where he was introducing his wine to the diners. Vietti continues to achieve year in and year out. The 2020 “Tre Vigne” Barbera continues that streak with a wine that begins with all bass notes. Deep and dark aromas of black cherry, roasted plums, candied violets and sweet spices. The wine is juicy and lush on the palate with gobs of blackberries and a touch of dried lavender and savory spice. The wine finishes with a brightness needed to keep the wine fresh.
Tempranillo: This Spanish wine is just what you need to warm up your taste buds when the fall chill sets in. Think about the aesthetically pleasing pumpkin spice flavoring, but in your wine glass instead. These reds have aromas that range from earthy tobacco and leather to clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg. If you want more spice, grab a bottle labeled “Reserva” to quench even more of your fall taste bud needs.
2020 Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero Tempranillo ($25). Ribera del Duero, Spain- Made from the highest quality grapes of incredible ripeness, the wine displays an intense deep garnet red color, with a bluish rim and a cherry red core. On the nose this wine is serious and elegant. The evolution in the glass translates into an increase in intensity and aromatic complexity where the fruit continues to be the backbone.
Sémillon: It may seem like fall is fully red wine’s season, but there’s way more to it than that. It’s also the perfect time to fall into some full-bodied white wines, like Sémillon. This French-born grape is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to excite the lush wine with a perfect zippiness. Pair it with those perfect green fall veggies to get the most out of the flavors. A Bordeaux Blanc is an excellent example.
A very reasonably priced Bordeaux Blanc is Chateau Haut-Rian ($12). Tasting Notes: This refreshing dry white wine features aromas of white flowers and lemon with whiffs of honeydew and even a hint of seashells. A crisp and crunchy palette with no taste of oak. The fresh fruit characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc is perfect match for the richness of Sémillon. Cheers!
