By Rick Riozza
Before our coverage springs into the white wines of spring and summer—where our desert climate clamors for, let’s get in on one of the most popular red wines that aren’t named Cabernet Sauvignon nor Pinot Noir: The red wines of the Rhône Valley.
Believe it or not, the red wines from the Rhône sell right up there with the Cabs and the Pinots in our desert. A big reason is that they sell at such a reasonable price, while they offer wonderful fruit and savory flavors. Trader Joe’s markets sell gobs of Grenache and Syrah blends that are priced around five to seven dollars. The wines satisfy both the young and the old as the wine is fruit friendly and goes well with all red and cured meats, red sauce pastas, and pizza.
One doesn’t have to get deep into the geography of the Rhône Valley & the South of France to grasp what the region offers. Your primary grapes are Syrah & Grenache. The next thing to understand is that there are two areas of the Rhône Valley: The North and The South.
The North Rhône is primarily Syrah—in the best sense. This is world class stuff where perhaps only parts in Australia, West Coast California, South Africa & Walla Walla Washinton, share the illustrious limelight. The Syrah grape shows: blackberries, black pepper, meat, herbs, raspberries, smoke, cedar, cherries, chocolate, earth, licorice, floral, game, leather, jam, mint, olives, plums, tar, tobacco, and violets—just to name a few! And you can build a house with all those flavors!
“Syrah” versus “Shiraz” name. No problem here, we’re talking about the same grape. Pretty much all the Shiraz grown in Australia was originally brought from the Rhône Valley in France where the famous Syrah is produced. And we love the way the Aussies say the word Shiraz—in their accent and rhyming the word with “jazz”.
In a most interesting turn of events/names, vino archaeologists have found remnants of “Syrah” wine in ancient clay vases found in Persia in and around the city of Shiraz. It’s credibly believed that during the times of Alexander the Great, those ancient vines taken from Persian were replanted in—you got it!—the Rhône Valley.
We’ve written before on the classic Syrah vines in the Rhône Valley. A few years ago, I got to witness first-hand the famous “Hermitage Hill”, somewhat off the North Rhône River. For those of you who know this area, you’re familiar with the world-famous Hermitage. Limited to just over 300 acres of vines on the renowned Hermitage Hill, Hermitage wine is uber-Syrah—the most valued and expensive in the world.
The wine on the Hill has a scent and flavor that are almost overwhelming, it can age forever, and is like a stellar vintage port without the added brandy. Stunning stuff at stunning prices! In its shadow, down from the Hill is the Crozes-Hermitage that gets you an appreciation of the experience, but much easier on the wallet.
Tain is at the foot of the Hermitage hill, the most famous appellation in the Rhône Valley, and arguably the most beautiful as well. Thr sres rises some 600 feet above the valley floor like a camel’s hump. Hermitage wines were served in the royal courts of Europe in the 17th century, and Thomas Jefferson purchased hundreds of bottles after visiting Tain in 1787.
The South Rhône is a big Grenache spot, along with Syrah and Mourvèdre. Grenache gleans, very fruity notes, especially cherries, raspberries, strawberries, cranberries, black currants, and then savory stuff such as earth, spices, cinnamon, coffee, and minerals. It’s such a “round” wine that pleases most red wine lovers.
As one would expect in Europe, the Grenache grape & the Mourvèdre go by different names. I’m sure you wine folk have seen Cannonau here and there on labels—that’s Grenache; Garnacha is Spanish; when you see Mataro, especially in Spain—that’s Mourvèdre.
And of course, many California red blends, especially around the Central Coast, made with Grenache, Syrah & Mourvèdre are known as GSM blends on the label.
Of course, the most famous wine in the South of France (notwithstanding Brad Pitt’s Miraval Rosé) is the classic Chateauneuf-Du-Pape—perhaps the very first French words a wine enthusiasts learns to say: [Shah-Toh-NUFF-Doo-POP]. It translates to “New Castle of the Pope”, the place near Avignon where the pope back in the day, left all the political mess of Rome behind, and moved the Papacy to the South of France.
Obviously a vinophile, the pope planted 13 of the best varietals of the area that includes your favorite GSM grapes mentioned above, and, ten other grapes one can check on the internet. Abbreviated, the wine is known as CDP.
Roxanne Shafaee-Moghadam of The Breakers states: “CDP is infinitely complex: tasting the wine describes what it is and gives you a sense of place and personality that burns itself on the palate and brain. It gives you all the reasons you want to know it and talk about it. If you open a bottle, in one hour it will change, and in two hours it will change again. Beyond that it doesn’t need 25 hours decanting nor 25 years of in the cellar. It is pleasurable and thought-provoking.”
Good news! The 2022 vintage in the Rhône Valley, that is now appearing in the wine aisle, is one of the best. This means that one can find inexpensive reds, such a Côtes-du-Rhône, that are tasting fresh, are elegant, and show only moderate amounts of alcohol. It’s a vintage for all reasons and seasons. À la tienne! À la nôtre! Cheers!
