By Rick Riozza
So if we were playing Jeopardy—and, the title above is the answer/response (which in Jeopardy, is always in the form of a question), then the actual posted “inquiry” (sorry—it’s best to watch the program on TV than to have the dynamic explained in print) would be something like: it’s the same place you’ve find a red Chianti—in Tuscany!
Another way to consider the title is this: most wine folk think that a Chianti is always a red wine; that white Chianti is simply farcical or a myth maybe. Everyone knows the Sangiovese grape is a red grape with its famed blood notes in the flavor profile. And while we’re at it—we only see “red” Chianti on our store shelves.
Okay then—but the truth is that there is in fact white Chianti; just like there is a red Bordeaux and a white Bordeaux. In other words, any white wine produced in Tuscany is indeed a white Chianti. And as one can imagine, there’s plenty of vineyard space to grow white grapes to produce wine.
This week’s column discusses two white Chianti: the most famous of white Chianti produced with one of Italy’s indigenous grapes; the other, one of the most desirable white Chianti produced from international grapes.
One of our favorite wines to pronounce: Vernaccia di San Gimignano [Ver-nah-cha- dee San Jee-meen-Nyah-noh] hails from the area surrounding the beautiful hill city of San Gimignano. The place is gorgeous and their wines are both rich and bright, citrusy and crisp, and lend a slight bitter note on the finis; nose rich in facets, including citrus notes of orange blossom, balsamic and vanilla. Fresh and strong on the palate, with a pleasantly savor/herb finish! Maturation and aging in barriques for 12 months.
Among the best Vernaccia di San Gimignano are very complex and provide a seductive olfactory picture, with balance and flavor structure. The very clear fruit stands out embellished with masterfully integrated tertiary notes. And we’ll gladly get through that sentence, and, even taste through some Vernaccia in another summer article soon.
But now, I’d love to recommend a white Chianti produced from grapes that you local wine folk will know well: Sauvignon Blance and Viognier. So sense what happens when these international varietals meet up with Tuscan terrior. We get a delicious blend and a world class white wine capable to match and pair well with a wonderful summer dinner.
And the star of this week’s column is the 2020 Col Vento, Castello del Terriccio Toscano IGT ($45) This elegant Mediterranean wine, made from Viogner and Sauvignon Blanc, shows a firm structure and ripe fruit profile while maintaining great finesse. It’s the only white wine of the Castello de; Terriccio estate located around the evocative area of Pisa, where the soils are characterized by a strong presence of stones and fossils, which give the white wines an incredible grip of minerality that blends beautifully with citrus notes in the glass.
The sea breeze that blows from the Tirreno sea not only helps the vineyards of Castello del Terriccio grow strong and healthy, but it also gives this wine a special and unique name: “Con Vento” comes from the name “Collina del Vento”, which in Italian literally means “Hill of the Wind”.
Often we wine writers can come close in describing the flavor notes of a given wine. I enjoyed this wine with dinner last night, and I’m enjoying the remainder as I write. It’s a medium-bodied white with a nose of aromatic blossoms and a palate of citrus, florals, and ripe stone fruit. It had all the gravitas to match both herb chicken and steamed fish on the dinner table. We could have enjoyed this wine with appetizers and a fresh cheese platter if we had opened it earlier. As mentioned, it’s a world-class white, and, worth the treat of $45 for any special dinner meal.
The history of the Castello del Terriccio winery has its roots in very ancient times. The cultivation of vines in this particular part of Tuscany dates back to the Etruscan era, or to the period between 800 and 500 BC. The name of the company, derives from the castle of Doglia, also known as “del Terriccio”, built in medieval times in Castellina Marittima, in the province of Pisa. The estate was originally born as a watchtower for enemies. Talk about history in a bottle—allora!
And if we wish to throw in a reputable Italian name—well enter, Carlo Ferrini, born and raised in Florence where he learned all he knows about winemaking. Immediately after graduating in agriculture in 1978, he began working for the Chianti Classico Consortium, where he worked for over ten years. In 2000 he was nominated ‘Enologist of the Year’ by Gambero Rosso and in 2003 he received the same recognition from the prestigious Italian Sommelier Association (Ais). In 2008 Wine Enthusiast, one of the most followed wine criticism magazines from overseas audiences, crowned Carlo Ferrini as ‘Winemaker of the Year“. Today he is one of the consultants for Castello del Terriccio. Assapora l’arte—taste the artistry. Saluti!
