By Rick Riozza
The official, unofficial white wine here in the desert is no doubt Sauvignon Blanc.
Because our climate is so sunny, we enthusiasts—almost out of necessity, but more-so out of love, cherish our Sauv Blancs because they are so refreshing and lively. The wines are such a savvy pick for the season as they pair wonderfully with the light cuisine of our valley. So much so that we’ve coined an affectionate term for this wine: Enter now the savvy blancs.
From around the top places in the world, we know of the zippy Sauv Blancs from kiwi-land; we know the subtle ones from the Loire Valley in France; and we cherish California’s savvy blancs that round things out and show a bit more of the tropical flavors.
But how many of us realize the wealth of reasonably priced Sauv Blanc from South Africa. Most enthusiasts haven’t spent the time trying them. And it’s too bad because the wines are absolutely delicious. And they quite often fit the demand for the savvy blanc person who likes a “middle-of-the-road” quaff. It’s been said that the South African Sauv Blanc is indeed the culinary center between the New Zealand zest and the softer Sancerre; South African is as vibrant as kiwi-land but more pungent and aromatic than French.
Wine emeritus, Hugh Johnson once stated, “There are many contestants in the world’s vineyard beauty contest, but South Africa is always in the finals. Blue-shadowed stacks of Table Mountain sandstone and decomposed granite rise from vivid green pastures dotted with the brilliant white façades of 300-year-old Cape Dutch homesteads.”
In other words, the expansive scenery is so beautiful that you just know the wines from those vineyards will produce some tasty vino!
Grapes were first planted at the Cape of Good Hope (now in South Africa) in the mid-1600s. It provided wine for sailors of the Dutch East India Company on the month’s long voyage from Europe to the highly valued Spice Islands, of what is now Indonesia. The Cape was a midway point, just as the style of the savvy blanc is midway between Europe and the New World.
The Cape boasts the oldest geology in the wine-growing world: ancient, weathered soils, typically based on either granite, sandstone, or shale, which naturally curtail the vigor of the vine—meaning more intense flavors in the grape. Most South African vines thrive in an almost perfect Mediterranean climate, cooler than their latitudes suggest, thanks to the cold current from Antarctica that washes on the south-west Atlantic coast.
Quite interesting to note: most climatologists predict that of all of the New World wine producers, South Africa is least likely to be seriously affected by climate change. Looks like this region will become more and more known and appreciated in the coming decades. Cheers to that!
All right—as we always write, it’s better to enjoy a cheeseburger than to read about it. So we importune you readers to contact your favorite wine shop and have them offer some South African savvy blanc for your pleasure.
And now—it’s the perfect time: I’d like to take this opportunity to do a shout-out to the Southern Hemisphere Wine Center. It is a local family-owned business that specializes in wines from the Southern Hemisphere (Australia, Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa, etc.). That company has been around for a while!
I remember back in the 1990’s searching out this wine shop in Huntington Beach California and visiting the place. I love their focus, and it perennially offers the best wine deals from the Southern Hemisphere. Oftentimes, this is one of the few wine shops around where one can find a South African wine available as needed.
Gregg Phillips, over at Southern, as been in the wine biz for over 25 years. Should you ever have an inquiry on wine—especially the one’s Down Under, internationally speaking, he’s the amiable guy to talk to. Check out their website: httvsouthernwines.com . Southern Hemisphere Wine Center 5973 Engineer Dr., Huntington Beach, Ca. 92649 (800) 504.9463.
Our savvy pick of the week: 2024 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc Wine of Origin Cape Coast, South Africa. ($17), This bottle showcases the pristine terroir of the region. It’s a welcoming break from all of the Sauv Blanc we’re used to; it’s a fresh and sexy pick for the table.
Made in a way ensuring the personality of site and soil is not over-ridden by the forceful character of the variety, this wine exhibits the typical Southern Right balance of tight “Old World” minerality and length with hints of “New World” texture and body.
This wine is from the Hamilton Russell Winery and they note: “favors origin expressive individuality, minerality and palate complexity ahead of simple, pungent varietal aroma. A significant percentage of fruit from iron and clay-rich soil (46%) has added a textural and structural component and additional overall complexity to this wine. Granitic soils (28%) have added openness and perfume, while sandstone soils have contributed their typical bright, tensile character and a marked, saline minerality. This is Sauvignon blanc as fine wine,
Certified Sustainable—integrated Production of Wine, Biodiversity & Wine Initiative Champion.
“The 2024 was warmer than the particularly cool 2023. Harvest finished early with ripening more variable, requiring careful selection. Our Sauvignon blanc acids were wonderfully high at harvest.The wines produced have beautiful texture and electricity. There was just not enough of them.”
Vinous: 90 points. The palate is well balanced, crisp and linear, with fine delineation. Quite an elegant Sauvignon Blanc, it boasts a precise, sapid finish that urges you back for more. This is very well made and very delicious.
‘Bajabule!’ ‘Gesondheid!’
